Travel: Getting away from it all on Welsh coast
IT WAS first thing in the morning and I opened the bedroom window to let in some fresh air – and heard nothing except the sound of the occasional seagull.
No traffic, no house alarms, no car stereos, no hedge strimmers – just complete peace and quiet.
And that was what my husband John and I had come to the aptly named Celtic Haven for.
A complex of cottages set around a restaurant, spa and welcome centre, Celtic Haven lies at the edge of the village of Lydstep on the Pembrokeshire coast.
Drive ten minutes east and you are in Tenby, go 15 minutes west and you reach Pembroke but here my only view was the golf course and, in the distance, the stunning Pembrokeshire coast.
The majority of the Celtic Spa cottages date back to the 12th century and they carry picturesque names such as Bosun’s Cabin, The Bakery and Kittiwake Cottage.
Ours was Servant’s Quarters which is a two-bedroom apartment on the first floor. The height gave it the advantage of privacy but being above someone else had the disadvantage that we shared their television viewing each morning and evening.
However, it is all mod cons with plenty of space so that we soon had Servant’s Quarters set up as a home-from-home.
We quickly fell into a routine. After breakfast we would head out to explore each day, returning in the evening which we discovered was the best time to use Celtic Spa’s pool and hot tub. At 10x5m the pool is small but we rarely shared it with more than a couple of people.
And then there is the spa whose treatment and therapies menu offers a wide range of massage, facials, wraps, manicures, pedicures and holistic options from brands such as Elemis, Jessica and Thalgo. I was more than keen to give it a go so had an Elemis Absolute Spa Ritual which was more than an hour of bliss including body, head and foot massage.
It was so good, in fact, I was back a few days later to try out one of my favourite therapies hot stone - or in this case Elemis Aroma Stone Therapy. Using hot stones to massage, this treatment was so relaxing I nearly drifted off but was determined to stay awake and ensure I enjoyed every minute.
We could have had a go at the other facilities available such as tennis courts, children’s playground, golf course, gym - but we wanted some time just to do nothing.
With the cottages being fully equipped with fridges, washing machines, cookers etcetera we had the choice to self-cater or eat out. Across the week we tried all the options.
The continental breakfast brought to your room the night before is a real bargain at £7.95 per person. The amount of food delivered was enough to keep us going for breakfast and lunch for two days!
We also tried out the centre’s Waves restaurant which is pretty popular and has a good range of choices including daily fresh fish plus each time we ate there we were told options could be altered slightly to taste.
And we visited the pub next door, the Lydstep Tavern, which offered generous portions of traditional fare with the added advantage that it was only a few minutes’ walk back to the cottage.
We were incredibly fortunate to visit for a week in September with sunshine every day and just one rainfall during the night. It has to be said that the weather really made the trip. We had plenty of time to discover the delights of Pembrokeshire and a quiet and beautiful setting to return to each evening.
* 10 Reasons to visit Pembrokeshire
1) Pembrokeshire coast - With its dramatic sheer cliffs, it is possible to follow the entire 240 square mile Coast National Park or just dip in for a short walk. The Coastal Path passes Celtic Haven so it is possible to take in a tiny part of it without needing the car.
2) Beaches - Take your pick from the sweeping golden sands of Saundersfoot to the many tiny coves such as Manorbier and the pretty village at Little Haven. We particularly liked Broad Haven South which is a gorgeous little cove hidden far down the Eastern coast of Pembrokeshire. A half hour walk past the Bosherston Lakes brings you out on the cove which is really quiet – apart from the sound of ammunition rounds emanating from the nearby Ministry of Defence ranges!
3) Castles - Where better than Wales? We visited the magnificent ruins of Pembroke Castle and saw the tower where Henry VII, founder of the Tudor royal dynasty, was born. We also stopped off at the much more modest but still impressive Carew and Laugharne Castles. I can’t recommend Manorbier Castle though as on the two different days we tried to visit, it was closed to the public for weddings.
4) Crafts - There is more to local crafts than Welsh gold and lovespoons and Narbeth is a great centre to find galleries filled with ceramics, artwork, photography, jewellery and sculpture. Pick up a copy of the free Pembrokeshire Art and Craft Guide booklet for details of galleries across the region.
5) Monks - We spent the day at Caldey Island where we joined the Cisterian order for prayers, toured the gift shops, walked along the coast (spotting seals on the way) and watched the making of Abbot’s Kitchen Chocolate where we learned the export all over the world including to churches in Birmingham.
6) Towns - Both Tenby and Pembroke are worth a look for their blend of seaside kitsch and independent stores and delis.
7) Leisurely lunches - Just beyond Haverfordwest we discovered Hilton Court, a small complex with a restaurant and tea room as well as park grounds, pottery and photography galleries and garden centre. With late summer sunshine we sat in the grounds and wasted away a good chunk of an afternoon.
8) Dylan Thomas - Visit the poet’s boathouse home in Laugharne and see the shed where he wrote some of his most famous works including Under Milk Wood while overlooking the River Taf Estuary.
9) Ruins - We were lucky enough to catch the Cadw (Welsh Heritage) managed Bishop’s Palace at Lamphey when there were no other visitors. Once a centre of wealth and opulence it fell into ruin under the anti clerical policies of King Henry VII’s son Henry VIII.
10) Food - Local cheeses, fresh fish, fudge shops, Welsh cakes, bara brith, Welsh wine...need I go on?
* Getting There
Diane stayed at Celtic Haven, Lydstep, Tenby, Pembrokeshire SA70 7SG. Tel: 01834 870000 Email: welcome@celtichaven.com
Website: www.celtichaven.com .
Prices start at £296 for a short break (Mon-Fri or Fri-Mon) and £395 for a week for a two person cottage. The resort has a special offer of £149 per person for a 3-4 night short break including a twocourse candlelit dinner and half hour spa treatment based on double occupancy until December 18.
For more on local attractions see www.visitpembrokeshire.com.
