Review - The Town House, Solihull

Feb 7 2008 By Paul Fulford

MY GRAN could be a tyrant, but, bless her, the sort of food she cooked ensured that I've never been squeamish.

Live, wriggling eels would be bought at the fish market and brought home by bus to be despatched on the kitchen table, appearing later beneath a blanket of floury parsley sauce. Lamb heart would be braised until it was very nearly edible. Even sheep's brains occasionally wobbled their grey way on to the dinner table.

And, of course, pig's trotters were also cooked.

Never, though, like they were at the Town House, a huge and externally nondescript pub in the centre of Solihull.

They had been meticulously boned and their meat had been minced and mixed with langoustine, mushrooms and tarragon to form a mousseline that was stuffed inside the skin to reform a perfect porcine tootsy.

This had been poached so that the skin was gloriously gelatinous and savoury and the sweet, fragrant stuffing set but soft.

A small puddle of light gravy lay beneath and a pillow of perfect mashed spuds reclined alongside.

This dish, eaten as a main course, was a triumph not only of technique but of taste.

Though rustic, it had a sophisticated array of flavours and textures and was a fabulous, satisfying dish.

My wife Lynn, meanwhile, ate salmon that had been poached in red wine and was served with a soupy pea puree and spinach. She was impressed.

Ewan tucked manfully into a very superior homemade burger served with caramelised onions, gruyere cheese, salad and properly cooked chips. He, too, was happy.

Earlier he had been mightily impressed by a light, milky soup of cauliflower which had a real earthy depth. Lynn's butternut squash risotto was also well received.

The salt cod that I ate as a starter was flaky, sweet and good but the lemon-zingy artichoke beneath confirmed my belief that this is a vegetable with little to commend it.

However, a soft herby crust was good and a buttery sauce beneath were very good indeed.

My wife didn't have the capacity for dessert while Ewan and I each chose a combo boasting Town House jammy dodgers with doughnuts.

Two rings of crumbly, buttery shortbread held a dollop of jam and a slick of whipped cream. There was a shot of a fruit liquor (replaced for Ewan with a nonboozy version) I couldn't identify and a little bowl of raspberry coulis. One moan, though. The doughnut, made with brown flour, hadn't been cooked long enough and was wet and stringy inside.

That said, this was a meal that hit many heights.

The Town House's chef Robert Wear worked with Marco Pierre White and at London's Mirabelle. His pedigree shows.

This was food with class and suggested a kitchen boasting skill, passion and sound common sense when it comes to matching ingredients.

Our bill also included bread, a soft drink, a coffee and a bottle of Chilean pinot noir.

Verdict

How much? .... £104 for three

Vegetarians? ........ Options

Child friendly? .......... Yes

Disabled access? ........ Fine

Parking? ....... Own car park

Go back? ........... With joy

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