The Farm, Farmhouse Way, Solihull. 0121 711 7273.

Feb 21 2008 By Paul Fulford

ANYONE curious (or bored) enough to have surfed their way on to my blog might have read my moan about waiters who refer to their customers as "you guys".

I'm not stuffy about these things. I hate restaurants that are formal. But nor do I like staff to pretend they're my best friend.

So I wasn't overly impressed to hear a waiter, delivering a plate, say: "Watch out, mate...."

Worryingly, this was the most memorable thing about the meal I ate at the Farm.

It's yet another venture involving Paul Salisbury, who any day now is going to be running every single pub in the UK.

Not necessarily a bad thing - I've had some cracking meals at places such at the Crabmill and Orange Tree.

Nor necessarily a source of unbridled joy - I've had disappointing experiences elsewhere.

The Farm - a barn-like place located on the edge of Solihull - falls somewhere between the two.

The place was packed on the night I ate there with my wife and four of our friends.

Very reasonable prices might explain its popularity among those who inhabit the sprawling Monkspath area.

The food certainly wouldn't cause me to rush back with a tingle of excitement.

The menu's a mix of grills, skewers, pasta, salads and the other components that are found in Salisbury pubs.

There wasn't much wrong with my starter.

Mild goat's cheese had been coated with chopped nuts and deep fried so that it emerged crisp on the outside and gooey within. A salad of beetroot and precisely cooked green beans added interest.

This was a simple and well conceived dish that ticked the right boxes without thrilling.

My main course was less impressive.

Chunks of chicken and lemon arrived on a skewer. The meat was unremarkable and the lemon clumsy.

The menu had mentioned that fabulous north African sauce harissa, but I could see no sign of the fiery red condiment.

"The chicken's marinated in it," explained a waiter.

Why? All it added to the meat was a slight background heat. There was none of the levels of flavour - coming from caraway, cumin, paprika and other ingredients - that make harrisa so appealing.

Worse was the cous cous alongside. It had the deep colour and dry texture of month-old saw dust. A little bowl of yoghourt did little to retrieve matters.

I made no use of the Farm's salad bar, which offers unlimited supplies of the healthy stuff to those who are dining.

My dessert - an apple and strawberry crumble - was enjoyable though a little over-sweet. But the custard that came with it was very good - nicely runny and well flavoured with vanilla.

With a single bottle of house wine between six of us plus a few soft drinks, the bill was eye-catchingly low.

But that wouldn't be enough to tempt me back - even though I am, apparently, the waiter's "mate".

Verdict

How much? .... £117 for six

Vegetarians? ...... Options

Child friendly? ......... Yes

Disabled access? ........OK

Parking? ......... Car park

Go back? .....Wouldn't rush

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