Lambs are in the mood for a break

Mar 20 2008 By Laurence Mccoy

DESPITE our mystifying weather patterns, spring can't be very far away now - those fluffy lambs gambolling in the fields are usually the first sign of a change in the seasons.

Some would say that's where lambs look their idyllic best. Others would insist their natural habitat is sitting in the oven with a bit of rosemary and garlic.

Lamb seems to have become a traditional Easter holiday centre-piece and it's the best time to make the most of that succulent sweet meat along with some sturdy red wines.

Rioja has become an obvious choice when it comes to roast lamb.

It could be something to do with that matching vanilla sweetness and scented oaky aroma.

Vina Herminia Excelsus 2005 (£6.99 at Oddbins) is a very approachable example. It uses a 50/50 blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha to produce a very attractive wine with seductive aromas of toasted oak and tobacco followed by rich red fruits, balanced with soft tannin.

That Garnacha element reappears in France, as Grenache, which along with Syrah dominates the Rhone Valley.

From the well-respected Skalli group comes a trio of wines that give a very neat portrait of the southern Rhone. Caves St Pierre Cotes-du-Rhone 2006 (£4.99 at Sainsbury, Somer-field and Tesco) is delightfully drinkable, with spicy, white pepper, bright, ripe red fruits and easy-going tannin.

It's bigger brother, Caves St Pierre Cotes-du-Rhone Villages 2006 (£6.99 at Tesco) is an altogether more substantial proposition, with brooding, silky and dusty dark fruits and a streak of licorice, it is definitely a food-friendly wine, and the spring lamb would be ideal.

Caves St Pierre 2006 Preference Chateauneuf-duPape (£14.99 at Tesco, or £17.99 at Thresher, but three for the price of two) ups the ante yet again. Stylish and impressive, it hurls challenging warm aromas of spice and black pepper out of the glass but its powerful, thick tannic exterior conceals luscious, savoury black fruits and rich dark chocolate hints.

Moving on to Pinot Noir - because the lamb's not really too fussy - Villa Maria Private Bin Marlborough Pinot Noir (£9.95 from the website www.winedirect.co.uk) is vivacious, juicy, with black cherries and kir, a hint of redcurrant and sweet smoky oak.

Anyone who thinks German red wines are pale and wimpy may well be surprised by Kendermanns 2006 Dornfelder/Pinot Noir (Tesco £6.99). This robust and personable wine has plenty of colour and lots of plummy, tobacco-scented, earthy flavour to match.