Matching your BBQ food with good wine

May 8 2008 By Laurence Mccoy

IT'S not hearing the first cuckoo, nor t he growl of countless petrol mowers coughing into life, but the wafting smoke of a million barbecues over garden fences across the nation, that finally confirms the beginning of the English summer.

At last, it's time to dig out the garden furniture from the shed and scrape the winter's rust off the barby.

Eating charred meat outdoors seems to have taken over from the Sunday roast and if global warming hasn't yet guaranteed sunshine and cloudless skies, at least we can make the most of the short gaps between cloudbursts and floods.

And that makes it the time to stock up on some dependable drinks that will adapt to the open air.

A shocking pink raspberry-scented fizz like Marques de Monistrol Vintage Rose Cava 2005 (£9.19 at Tesco) is ideal to fill in the long wait while the coals are lit. Its white cousin, Vintage 2004 Cava Brut (£9.19 at Tesco) has enough delicate elegance, with hints of pear and lemon, to stave off the boredom.

For a special al fresco event Heidsieck Monopole Blue Top Champagne (widely available at £22.99) is made with a predominance of Pinot Noir to deliver spicy fruitiness that is ideal as an aperitif or would take the edge off the grilled and blackened king prawns.

For a fleshy and flavoursome white wine with a difference L'Olivier Minervois de La Reze (£6.99 at Tesco) is made with local grapes Rousanne, Muscat Petits Grains and Grenache Blanc, and it has fleshy, sweet grapefruit and creamy, earthy fruit that should cope well with singed chicken.

With the sausages - doubtless crunchy on the outside and dangerously pink inside - some robust reds are called for. Finca Flichman Misterio Malbec 2007 (£4.99 at Morrison's) is a bargain for a sturdy, plummy, chocolatey red from Argentina. Golden Kaan Merlot (£5.49 at www.capewineandfood.com) has supple, silky damson fruit with a seam of nicely charred oak. From Australia a peppery McGuigan Black Label Shiraz (£5.99 at the Co-op and £6.99 - £3.99 for two at Thresher) is ripe, raspberry and chocolate.

Anyone who ruins a chunky rib of beef should give up barbecuing. Simply sear on both sides on a very hot fire or griddle for about a minute each, let it rest and slice thinly - with rocket and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar perhaps - for a variation on Bistecca Fiorentina.

And with an Italian classic it has to be Chianti. Banfi Chianti Classico 2005 (£9.99 from Majestic) gives forth perfumed black fruits with savoury, herby hints and dry tannins, but make sure to let it breath - by decanting an hour earlier. Chianti Piccini Reserva 2004 (£5.99 Sainsbury and Tesco) is more immediately friendly.