Fishing for condiments

Jul 24 2008 By Gabrielle Fagan

DO you steer clear of the fish counter at the supermarket because you fear cooking a fish dish from scratch will be too difficult and messy? Miss out on tasty fish suppers and you are depriving yourself of something wonderful, according to chef Atul Kochhar.

Kochhar, the first Indian chef to be awarded a Michelin star has taken a whole new approach to fish by marrying it with Indian spices.

"I've discovered that the marriage of British fish and Indian flavours is one of the best there is," he says.

The chef is hoping his discovery will spark a revolution in the way we cook and eat fish because, as he points out, "in the UK currently, fish cookery is so under-exploited.

"This country is surrounded by ocean, yet we shy away from the wealth of seafood available to us despite the fact it's some of the best in the world, and sometimes even free.

"Also, although we'd all benefit health-wise from including fish in our diet more often, many people lack confidence when it comes to buying and cooking fish."

Similarly, he says his homeland of India, despite its long coastline, generally doesn't make the most of seafood. "Fish tends to be cooked in 'curries' which mask the qualities that make it special - its colours, textures and aromas.

"But fish is a wonderfully versatile ingredient and, as long as you take care not to overwhelm it, makes a perfect canvas for spices and herbs."

Some of his favourite dishes include Kentish oysters, scallops from the Isle of Man, right through to Cromer crab and Scottish herrings. In his new book, Fish Indian Style, he's incorporated some signature British ingredients - along with many others - and the elements of the cookery he grew up with in East India.

One of his quirky favourites is Mumbai Fish Pizza and he jokes: "This recipe is a cheeky dig at the stylish folk of Mumbai (Bombay) who regard themselves as trend setters. Italian food is all the rage there at the moment."

Fish Indian Style, by Atul Kochhar, is published by Absolute Press, Priced £20.