Time to get cider flowing
IN THESE straitened times the canny shopper is looking around for cheaper substitutes... lemonade instead of Champagne, perhaps, or squirrel instead of chicken...
No, it’s not easy to replace what you love with something else.
The secret is to make an entirely different choice, and although cider might seem like a poor relation to wine, it has a distinct and unique character all of its own, which makes it a more than worthy alternative. In fact, during the 17th century cider was actually preferred to wine in English high society.
Diarist John Evelyn wrote, in 1664: “All strong and pleasant cider excites and cleanses the Stomach, strengthens Digestion, and infallibly frees the Kidneys and Bladder from breeding the Gravel Stone.”
Evelyn might turn in his grave to see how some English cider is produced today, however, in massive industrial operations using apple juice concentrate, largely imported, and full of artificial sweeteners and preservatives.
On the bright side, there is a band of dedicated “craft” cider-makers keeping the traditions alive – or at least some of them. In the 18th century farm-workers used to be paid part of their wages in cider, typically three or four pints a day! Times change ... but in fact modern independently-made ciders won’t be too different, with fermented apple juice and nothing else – apart from being made with more care and in far more hygenic conditions.
And cider is no longer just for quaffing after a hard day in the fields. It accompanies lots of foods very well.
Try cider with oysters for instance, prawns, crispy roasted belly pork, shepherd’s pie, Peking duck, trout poached in cider, or salmon fillets, or with cheeses. It also perks up sauces no end – cider gravy with pork, or in a cheese fondue perhaps.
Look out for the leading craft cider producers, like Biddenden, Sheppy’s, Dunkerton’s, Thatcher’s. Gwynt y Ddraig (yes, it’s from Wales), and Aspall, among many others, who are flying the flag for a great British tradition.
* There will be plenty of cider flowing – as well as beer and wine – at Lichfield’s Winter Festival at the Guildhall this weekend (see www.lichfieldarts.org.uk/winterbeer.aspfor details.
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