Hotel Du Vin, 25 Church Street, Birmingham 0121 200 0600
AGE is a terrible thing, making floppy bits that were once taut and dulling minds that were once razor sharp.
As I approach my dotage, I’m happy that the decline might not be as steep as it might have been.
But it does disturb me that, 24 hours after, I remembered so little detail of the food that I ate during my most recent meal at Hotel Du Vin, especially since the bill was not exactly low.
And such lack of detail can’t be blamed on booze – I had only one large glass of red wine and my guest, whose recollections are equally hazy, drank just one small glass.
In Hotel du Vin’s favour, let me say that I do remember there was little wrong with the meal. It’s just that it won’t linger long in my memory.
The chicken liver parfait with which I began the meal was smooth, rich stuff with a nice savoury depth and, perhaps, just a touch too much garlic.
The chutney that came with it was dar, thick and tangy and good. Likewise the bread that came alongside was good.
My guest’s light but good and meaty crayfish fishcakes also won approval, though not applause.
Main courses, too, showed a kitchen that serves up classic dishes based on good quality ingredients handled with good technique, but with no surprises.
But perhaps that says a lot about the market for which Hotel du Vin caters – largely a well-healed and well-paid bunch who, I suspect work, in the nearby business quarter.
The confit duck leg I ate was good stuff – the skin crisp, the meat nicely moist, tender and packed with flavour.
The mashed potatoes that lay alongside were good and creamy, though I prefer a softer, almost runny texture.
My companion’s belly pork came crisp on top and succulent below and was well received, as was the accompanying stewed red cabbage.
Side orders or green beans and mixed salad added to the bill but not particularly the enjoyment of the meal.
This was substantial stuff and neither of us wanted dessert was we finished off our wine and moved on to a pot of soothing Earl Grey tea.
The decor of the restaurant – so of aged Parisian chic – makes it a pleasant place to sit.
There was a good buzz about the place and service was never anything less than friendly and efficient.
Verdict
FOOD DECOR AND SERVICE: ***
VALUE: **
How much? £95 for two
Child friendly? OK
Vegetarians? Choices
Disabled access? Fine
Parking: Nearby P&D
Go back? Perhaps
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