The Spice Exchange, 1845 pershore road, cotteridge, birmingham. 458 5707
THE menu didn’t mince its words when it came to describing the onion bhaji on offer at the Spice Exchange.
“Ours are lighter, spicier and more delicious than any you’ve tasted before,” it gushed.
As my old mom used to say, self praise is no praise at all.
Especially when the reality is far different from the boast.
These were dense discs that were about as light as Susan Boyle after a night bingeing on deep-fried Mars Bars washed down with gallons of Irn Bru.
They were certainly spicy. Indeed, the chilli heat excluded most other flavours apart from that of over-caramelised onions.
But the most delicious I’d ever tasted? No no no.
This was a view shared by my 14-year-old son Ewan, who’s no stranger to an onion bhaji.
My wife Lynn ate samosa and had no particular complaints.
My main course was an improvement on the starter I ordered.
Handi lamb came steaming in an attractive, clay pot and its wholesome appearance set my heart racing.
But the chunks of meat were rather chewy and the sauce a little gloopy with none of those layers of flavour that mark out the best Indian food from the rest.
Ewan’s chicken shah jahani was even less attractive.
I cannot comment on the chicken breast stuffed with minced lamb since I didn’t sample it – though my wife did and said the meat was of good quality.
But the yellow sauce that surrounded it was incredibly and unpleasantly sweet.
Lynn’s vegetarian main course – matter paneer – pleased her. In fact, she was delighted by the homemade cheese it contained.
Between the three of us we shared a bowl of good pea pillau rice (containing plenty of peas) and a fluffy naan.
Earlier we’d shared a plate of poppadoms that were good and crisp and which came with unremarkable yoghurt, mango and chopped onion sauces.
The lacklustre fare was disappointing because the restaurant’s modern and funky decor sets it out from the crowd.
And the service was friendly and efficient enough to charm us.
Prices, too, were fine. The bill included plenty of soft and alcoholic drinks.
But, crucially, this was a meal that underwhelmed me.
And when the promise on the menu was so high, that was a let down.
Verdict
How much?: £52 for three
Vegetarians?: Fine
Child friendly?: Yes
Disabled access?: OK
Parking?: Nearby
Go back?: Wouldn’t rush
Value: £££
Food, decor, service: ***
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