I HAVE never seen so many happy children in a restaurant – ever.

But what makes the scene all the more remarkable is that many of the young diners are eating raw fish and seaweed. And we’re in Birmingham city centre.

There are no complaints, no tantrums and no tell-tale signs of boredom among this toughest of audiences. That’s because the food at YO! Sushi’s latest hip outlet in Brindleyplace is good, but it’s also because the atmosphere is spot on for this bustling style of portioned-controlled eating.

I’ve eaten at the chain’s other city restaurant, at Selfridges, and if I’m honest I’m not sure what new angle I would find. Then I noticed the children, loads of them, all happily eating a Sunday lunch comprising sticky, vingered rice, seared tuna and raw salmon, spicy rice dishes and bowls of lip-smacking, tangy noodles.

We went with our own children, who at 11 and 14 are past the scary “what if they blow up?” phase that haunts parents when eating out. But there were babies in prams, toddlers clutching fistfuls of handrolls filled with duck, salmon and soft shell crab as well as teenagers, alone or with mum and dad in tow.

Despite the number of children, the place, which opened just before Christmas, has none of the “kiddies’ club” feel of themed pubs. It simply feels like an adult place, where the children happily blend in.

Kitchen ninja Noosh Ferns, senior sous chef at Brindleyplace, says children love the spectacle of Japanese food, both watching the intricate preparation of dishes in the open, central kitchen and seeing the pretty, brightly coloured end products, like the bite-sized maki and futomaki (the little rice-filled rolls wrapped in seaweed, or nori). It’s a hand-on experience for younger customers. I also suspect the size of the coloured-coded dishes, which don’t overwhelm (unlike a groaning plate of roast meat and soggy veg) explains the attraction of Far Eastern eating for children.

“A lot of restaurants can put kids off,” says Noosh. “But there is lots to do and see here.