BROAD Street’s shoddy paving stones were uneven when they were first laid – now some are often almost black with filth, too.

Happily, this three-month-old business is much tidier on the inside and my cheerful server was in a chatty mood as I waited for my bespoke basket of fries to cook.

They tasted OK, but the anaemic things rapidly lost their warmth as they weighed in at 175g on my in-car scales.

Nor are they great value at £1.50 – a typical price on this thoroughfare when many shops will be hoping evening revellers have imbibed too much alcohol to notice.

Verdict * *