SIMPLE holds its own delights... unless, of course, it comes in a school report about your child.

But in the restaurant world, there is a lot to commend simplicity as a counter-balance to the complexity that so many chefs believe is necessary.

For simple food to be good, however, it needs to be done well. And that means good ingredients treated with skill.

Which certainly seemed to be the case at Marco Pierre White’s steakhouse and grill, recently opened on the 25th floor of the Cube and boasting truly commanding views of the city and beyond.

It’s a relaxed but stylish and modern sort of place with a couple of bars and a good vibe.

Don’t expect culinary trickery – this is a menu grounded in straightforward classics.

Thus for me as a starter a kipper pate, gently spiked with whisky, that was of impeccable texture and soothing flavour and came with properly crisp, painstakingly thin melba toast.

For my wife Lynn, a plate of excellent quality and plentiful smoked salmon – but at ten quid a pop, so it should be – served with brown bread.

She was less impressed by the calves liver to which she progressed.

Though she enjoyed the medium-rare offal, she thought the creamed potatoes unimpressive and the gently fiery sauce diablo a little cloying.

But my main course was beyond reproach.

The 10oz sirloin steak was nicely marbled with fat and thus packed with flavour.

It was cooked to rare perfection so that the outside was crisp and slightly smoky and the inside the right side of bloody.