BEFORE going any further with this travel write-up I ought to declare a possible conflict of interest.
I make no bones about having a soft spot for Italy’s Bay of Naples and its neighbouring resorts.
This is a part of the world we visit annually, but with good reason.
The weather’s great. The food’s delicious. There’s an ancient site at every turn and the lush plains and mountainous scenery is as good as anywhere.
The Naples skyline is dominated by the powerful, brooding presence of Mount Vesuvius, the only active volcano on mainland Europe.
It’s possible to take a bus up its slopes before taking a half-hour walk to the crater.
The volcano last erupted in 1944, but its most notorious show of power was in 79AD when it famously destroyed the nearby towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum.
A visit to these two ancient sites, dramatically frozen in time, should be on any traveller’s must-see list.
At Pompeii you can immerse yourself in the daily lives of the ancient Romans, with their merchant villas to public baths and brothels. Don’t miss the smaller but just as impressive Herculaneum, a wealthy town buried by huge avalanches of volcanic mud. It’s a mesmerising sight to visit the expensive villas, wine shops and even a hotel abandoned by fleeing residents whose bodies have been found carrying coins.
The Museo Archeologico Nazionale in Naples houses many of the most important relics from this disaster, including paintings, mosaics and sculptures.
Our trip began with a night at one of Naples’ historic hotels, Grand Hotel Parker’s.
Set in the heart of the city this luxurious hotel, which offers spa, gourmet and shopping breaks, has wonderful views across the Bay from its lovely roof terrace.
We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and made our plans for the day on a rooftop terrace watching ferries take tourists to the resort islands of Capri and Ischia.
Ok, so Naples has its problems – hasn’t any major city? The ongoing rows over waste disposal have attracted headlines for all the wrong reasons. But don’t be put off. This city really is unique and like no other in Italy.
Even Neapolitans consider themselves a different breed to the industrious northern cities such as Milan and Turin and Italy’s capital, Rome.
It has that classic port city hustle. Perhaps slightly intimidating to first-time visitors, but scratch beneath the surface and it’s hard not to fall for its charms.
Naples is where the now ubiquitous pizza was created many years ago. Forget what you’ve tasted boxed up at your local takeaway, a true pizza consists of a light, thin bread, a rich tomato sauce and few, but quality, ingredients. Order a slice from a street-seller, find a spot to sit in a piazza and watch Neapolitans enjoy the passeggiata – the evening stroll catching up on family gossip. If you enjoy people watching, you won’t be disappointed.