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Scotland: Dancing on ice in Cairngorm storm

But faced with competition from cheap flights and more accessible skiing in Europe, not to mention the effects of global warming and less consistent snow conditions, that had declined by two-thirds in 2007.

However, last year was an excellent season, with 62,000 enjoying the uniquely wild and rugged slopes.

And now, with the pound in freefall and the credit crunch persuading more people to stay at home, Aviemore is set for another excellent year.

They say that if you can ski in Scotland you can ski anywhere, and it’s true that the surface can be icy, and the wind a little challenging. But that meant nothing to the young ski team members scything down the narrow “Gunbarrel” run on a blustery Sunday morning.

People here certainly like to challenge themselves. Showing us around the slopes, Aviemore ski ambasssador Annie Forwood admitted that she herself had once been known to ski all the way down to the valley floor and jump over a snow-banked road – not realising there was a bus passing underneath at the time!

Cairngorm skiers have the advantage of being transported by Scotland’s only funicular railway to the Ptarmigan Top Station and restaurant, just below the summit of Cairn Gorm.

From here there are spectacular views over the surrounding hills and the 30kms of ski slopes below.

The hills are a veritable adventure playground for visitors who like to push themselves that extra distance, but apart from skiing and mountaineering, there is no limit to the activities on offer, from skydiving and paragliding to white water rafting and canyoning, sailing and canoeing to climbing, skiing and snowboarding.

But you don’t have to have a thirst for thrills to simply revel in the inimitable scenery.

The region includes some of the best walking in Britain, and there’s golf, salmon fishing or pony trekking. There are gentle forest trails and cycling routes, as well as unrivalled opportunites for nature-watching in the pine forests of Abernethy and Rothiemurchus and the heather-clad moors, home to osprey, ptarmigan, capercaillie and golden eagles, as well as red squirrels and even reindeer.

A couple of days were just enough to get a tantalising glimpse of the wealth of attractions in this magical place.

As we were leaving snow was beginning to fall again – the start of a massive dump that would bring Alpine conditions.

I can’t wait to get back.

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