Discovering the Great Ocean Road

Sep 20 2009

THEY call them the 12 Apostles. The limestone stacks stand 45 metres in height and rise out of the swirling waves of the Southern Ocean.

Dramatically formed by the erosion of waves and rain, they have an otherworldly quality, as if giant props from a Bond movie or fantasy epic.

The sun suddenly shines out from behind an errant cloud and the Apostles stand out from the sea in a brilliant sandy yellow.

The change is so dramatic that it takes your breath away.

Impressive as they are, the 12 Apostles are just one of the attractions of the Great Ocean Road in Victoria. It’s a rather grand name for a road, inspiring images of grandeur, but this 243km coast-hugging route delivers.

Don’t think just dramatic limestone formations but also quaint villages, coastal and rainforest walking, surfing or mountain biking opportunities, hibernating whales and koalas.

It is a recipe for the best driving and walking in Australia. There’s lots to see from the comfort of your car, but on foot you can find hidden gems that will provide a lifetime of memories.

While the Great Ocean Road can be reached from Melbourne in one long day, you’re best to take several days to take in the scenic attractions.

The road runs between Torquay and Warrnambool in Victoria, along the Bass Straight and Southern Ocean, and was constructed to provide work for returning soldiers from WWI and dedicated as a memorial to those killed there.

If you’re coming from Melbourne head to Torquay first, home to world-famous Bells Beach where international surfing competitions are held, and home to surf companies Rip Curl and Quicksilver.

Anglesea is a short 15km further along the road and renowned for the kangaroos on the golf course and horse-riding on the beach.

The road from here becomes particularly scenic. Lorne is another 30km south and one of the more expensive and busiest holiday resorts along this coast. There’s a good deal of cafe culture here.

But more than that, there are beautiful forests to explore, a nice beach and the impressive Erskine Falls. Take an easy hour’s stroll along the coast along the Shipwreck Walk, passing plaques that denote the wrecks along the coast.

If you’re keen to catch some waves again, local Lorne surfers head to Cathedral Rock just back towards Anglesea.

There are also good beaches further south at Wye River and Kennett River. The general store at Wye River is generally considered THE place to have fish and chips along the road, while Kennett River is a good spot to see koalas nestling in the trees.

Back on the route, time your drive at sunset for the picturesque stretch to Apollo Bay 90km along the road and you won’t be disappointed.

About the midway point, Apollo Bay lies on the lower slopes of the Otway ranges and is a good spot to stay the night.

The beach is where everything happens here and if you love getting out on the water you can swim, sea-kayak with seals, go deep sea fishing or surf. Thanks to the local fishermen, seafood always rates in the cafes and restaurants. In town there’s a Saturday market every week, galleries to peruse, tea houses to enjoy and a number of good festivals including the cool Apollo Bay Music Festival in late March.