MORE than any other foodstuff, fish seem to me have their own kinds of personality.

It would be mad - for instance - to think of a potato as a bank manager who lives in Droitwich.

But a salmon, plump and pink, clearly resembles one of those suburban witches such as Hyacinth Bucket, central character of that decidely unfunny TV sitcom Keeping Up Appearances.

Sea bass, on the other hand, are a bit foppish - the sort of fish which, if human, would probably have been lead singer of a band like Coldplay. Cod is an amiable, slightly dozy sort of chap who'd happily loan you a fiver down at the bookie's.

But swordfish...well, he's a lairy sort who'd lurk on a beach in the eastern stretches of the Mediterranean wearing a medallion and a pair of swimming trunks that were way too small.

No fancy treatment, then, is required when this creature is served on a plate.

And none was given at the Lyttelton Arms - a hefty chunk had been chargrilled so that it had a good, dark edge while remaining succulent within. A slice of lemon provided extra moisture and a touch of sharpness.

There was a pile of peppery watercress, some exempla ry chips and - best of all - a little bowl of chopped mango, chilli and garlic that added sweetness and spice.

This was good rustic fare that I enjoyed a great deal at this Paul Salisbury pub, newly refurbished with enormous panache after a devastating fire.

Earlier, though, the kitchen had showed its dainty side with a starter that suggested serious attention to the sourcing of ingredients, com mon sense in their combination and skill in their preparation.

Fat but tender stalks of asparagus were served with slightly smoky Cumbrian air-dried ham, a perfectly poached egg yolk and a rich Hollandaise sauce. Textures, colours and flavours worked together superbly.

I ate there on a Saturday night with my wife Lynn and our friends the Nelsons - Mark and Jane and their two sons Ben and Jack.

A platter of flatbread, olives, feta and olives was hastily eaten - and much appreciated - as a shared starter by my wife and our friends while I jea lousy guarded my asparagus combo.

Main courses of duck with bitter orange sauce, ribeye steak with burnt tomato salsa, pasta and beef ragu and a fish pie straight from the pages of Nanny's Comfort Food Cookbook were all enjoyed along with a few side orders that weren't really needed.

With wine, beers, soft drinks and various side orders, the bill came to around twenty quid a head - reasonable, I thought, for food of this quality.

With its modern but sympathetic decor, this is a pleasant place to wile away the hours and muse about piscean personalities.

Verdict ****

How much? £138 for six Vegetarians? Choices Child friendly? Yes Disabled access? Fine Parking? Large car park Go back? Happily

Address: Bromsgrove Road, Hagley