VENISON is a meat historically associated with the aristocracy, but is now increasingly popular with us "commoners"- largely because it is higher in protein and lower in fat than any other red meat and, in many cases, about as free range as you can get.

Widely available from good butchers' shops and other outlets, estate-hung venison is more likely to have a robust flavour and be more tender than farmed game.

Venison can be cooked in several ways. Prime cuts such as the haunch or saddle are most often roasted; medallion steaks can be pan-fried, while less tender cuts can be stewed or used for mince or burgers.

Accompanying sauces should be strongly flavoured - claret, port, redcurrant and sloe berries all work well, along with spices such as nutmeg.

* Chris Duffy is executive chef at Filini at the Radisson SAS Hotel, Birmingham.