WITH dishes from across the Far East, the aptly-named Oriental sets itself a tough target.

For the cuisine of Thailand, for instance, is far removed from Cantonese dishes. And both are different from Malaysian or Mongolean food.

To have a kitchen that can master the intricacies of such a wide range of styles - deftly balancing the spices, ingredients and cooking methods - is a challenge.

Yet it's a challenge that was mostly met on the evidence of a recent visit.

My post-holiday gloomy mood was lightened by the buzzy atmosphere on the Mailbox's canal-side on the sunny Friday evening I visited with my wife and sons.

I was less happy, though, about the slow and confused service we received - nothing serious, just irritations such as glasses being collected without us being asked whether we wanted further drinks.

All of which rather detracted from the stylish, sophisticated ambience of this ambitious restaurant, in the same ownership as Thai Edge.

Lynn, Murray, Ewan and I shared a Malaysian platter, which was hearty.

Plump, juicy prawns came in admirably thin, crisp pastry with a good tangy dipping sauce.

Pastry parcels, again stuffed with seafood, were a little bit too similar, but were nevertheless enjoyable.

Spare ribs, in a sticky sweet and sour sauce, were fat and finger-lickin' good. But chicken came in a similar sauce that offered little contrast.

Satay beef was flavoursome (if a little chewy) and came with a fabulous nutty sauce.

Personally, I'd have appreciated a vegetable component in place of one of the meaty offerings. And I speak as a hardened carnivore. However, my main course left me with no complaints at all.

This Mongolean dish combined strips of tender and tasty sirloin with a good, peppery sauce rich and sweet with coconut milk.

This was a well-balanced and utterly satisfying combo that ate well with the plain steamed rice we ordered as a side dish.

Lynn's chicken renda ng, Ewan's green chicken curry and Murray's beef curry were also well received. As was a side dish of noodles with bean sprouts.

None of us had space for dessert because the starter and main courses were so generous in size.

However, our bill did include a beer, a soft drink and a bottle of very good Californian red wine that stood up well to the sassy flavours of the food.

None of this came cheap, but I guess the Oriental's enviable location and plush decor have to be financed somehow.

Verdict

How much?.........£104 for four

Vegetarians?....................Fine

Child friendly?..................Yes

Disabled access?.................No problem

Parking?........................Plenty

Go back?...............................Yes

* OUR TOP 5...

EASTERN EATERIES

WONG'S

Stylish, serene place that offers skillfully executed Cantonese food. 5-11 Fleet Street, Birmingham. 0121 212 1888.

JACKY'S KITCHEN

Great value (and sometimes feisty) north Chinese dishes served by friendly staff. Unit 4 Southside, Bromsgrove Street, Birmingham. 0121 666 7187.

BARBECUE VILLAGE

Check out the kebabs at this unfussy eaterie, again offering north Chinese food. 55 Station Street, Birmingham. 0121 643 5723.

WING WAH

Good dim sum, a well priced buffet and extensive a la carte at this huge place. The Wing Yip Centre, 278 Thimble Mill Lane, Nechells. 0121 327 7879.

WAGAMAMA

Just the spot for a bowl of noodles when shopping gets too much. Bullring Shopping Centre, Edgbaston Street, Birmingham. 0121 633 3033.