TABOULEH too often proves to be a miserable dish in this country - a stodgy mass of bulghur wheat with a few tired leaves of parsley or mint.

At its best, it's zingy with lemon juice and packed with vivid green herbs so that the grains are few and far between.

Which is how it was served at Syriana, a restaurant offering Syrian and Lebanese food in an eye-catching Grade II listed building at the Snow Hill end of Constitution Hill.

Here it was a riff on the vibrancy of the dressing and greenery, the flecks of cracked wheat simply adding a bit of texture now and then.

And my heart sang with joy as I tucked in during a Friday evening meal with my wife Lynn, sons Ewan and Murray and Murray's girlfriend Sarah.

The tabouleh was part of a set menu that boasted numerous and varied starters, all highly enjoyable.

There was hummus with a deep, smoky flavour and a refreshing salad of lettuce, tomato, cucumber, mint, onion, radish and toasted squares of flatbread.

There was a vegetarian moussaka rich with tomato, luscious with aubergine and dotted with soft chickpeas.

Three tiny pies - one stuffed with spiced lamb, one with spinach and another with soft cheese - were made with crisp, slightly sweet pastry.

Falafel were admirably light and batata harra - potatoes and other vegetables ser ved in a spiced, garlicky sauce - provided a bit of ballast.

Kibbeh shameyieh were meat-balls of juicy, flavoursome minced lamb in a crunchy cracked wheat coating.

Stuffed vine leaves had an almost medicinal snap to them.

A seemingly inexhaustible basket of excellent flatbread was also brought. The restaurant's friendly owner - who'd guided us towards the set menu and explained its components - suggested a 30-minute break between us finishing the mezze and taking delivery of our main courses.

This was sound advice for not only were the starters filling - the main courses were generously proportioned.

Stars of the show were two whole large chargrilled sea bass, their skin crisp and blistered, their flesh flaky and good.

Various cuts of lamb and chicken, again chargrilled, arrived on a platter and were also enjoyable.

As were bowls of a pleasant gently spiced vegetable soup and serving of a vegetarian dish.

A huge plate of rice and bowl of chips - I think aimed at my younger son - were also brought.

The fact that much food remained uneaten reflected the amount of food served rather than its standard.

Yet we still found space for baklava - those ruinously sweet pastries - brought at the end of the meal with glasses of mint tea.

None of this was haute cuisine, but it was hugely satisfying and very enjoyable. And the price was remarkably reasonable.

The decor, with its low tables and trinkets, is unfussy but atmospheric.

A television showing a belly dancer did little to add to the occasion, though the live dancers at weekends might be a different matter.

Syriana is unlicensed, but punters are welcome to take along their own grog.

Our bill also included several soft drinks.

* Verdict

HOW MUCH?........ £67 for five

VEGETARIANS?........... Choices

CHILD FRIENDLY?.............. Yes

DISABLED ACCESS............. OK

PARKING?............ P&D nearby

GO BACK?................... Love to

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