THERE came a time during my meal at this newly opened restaurant that I didn't know whether I was about to glaze over ecstatically like Homer Simpson during one of his doughnut moments or would begin uttering the sort of noises made by Meg Ryan in that embarrassing cafe scene in When Harry Met Sally.
Thankfully for those who were with me, I entered into a Homer-style reverie as I completed my starter.
Foie gras came in three forms - a slice seared to melting, buttery perfection, a slightly rustic terrine and a little chunk served in pastry that had the quality of fairground food were the fairground in question to be aimed solely at posh people with refined palates.
A garnish of sauteed apple added refreshing sweetness, a crisp, wafer-thin slice of spiced bread brought intrigue and texture while a truffle jelly delivered a good, earthy flavour. The sweetness of a glass of chilled sauterne contrasted wonderfully with the dish's savoury notes.
A final mouthful - combining the last of the seared foie gras with a little apple, a fragment of pain d'epice and a smear of truffle jelly - transported me to a place a great beauty far, far away.
Meanwhile my companions - my wife Lynn and our friends Medi and Ken - fell silent over a starter than combined lobster and crab with a gently spiced dressing and a salad of macadamia nuts.
It was tempting to light a fag, lean back in my chair and ask: "How was it for you?"
But instead I sipped a glass of the light, fruity red wine that was to accompany my main course.
Here, again, there were plenty of earthy notes and honest but flavours.
A precisely cooked piece of monkfish sat on top of braised Puy lentils surrounded by a vivid red Rioja sauce that had vinous vibrancy and a sweet spiceness.
On top lay a chunk of zampone - the restaurant's version of an Italian sausage containing pig's trotter, ham hock and (sorry, geese and duck lovers) a little more foie gras.
This was a fish dish for meat lovers - a plate of robust, contrasting flavours that were somehow elegant and restrained.
Typical, I think, of chef-proprietor Andy Waters's refined cooking, which has a lightness and sureness of touch that reflects his classically-trained background.
Nothing flashy or novel here - just ingredients that earn their place on a plate and are treated with respect and great craftsmanship.
These qualities were also apparent in Lynn's main course, which combined belly and braised cheek of pork, black pudding and garnishes of apple, carrots and asparagus.
Likewise in the fillet and braised blade of beef with morels and a red wine jelly ordered by our friends.
Neither woman ordered dessert, but I progressed to a pistachio parfait of exemplary lightness of texture and flavour while Ken ate a fluffy bramley apple souffle served with a tangy blackcurrant sorbet.
Various complimentary dishes and nibbles during the meal - too various to mention in this restricted space - were hugely enjoyable. Friendly, efficient service, a buzzy atmosophere and stylish decor added to the occasion. As did some excellent wines.
Some may wince at the bill but believe me: it's worth it - this place is superb.
Andy Waters won a Michelin star for his cooking at Edmund's when it was located in Henley in Arden. It will be surprising if his new gaff doesn't get similar recognition.
Verdict *****
How much? £237 for four
Vegetarians? Yes
Child friendly? OK
Disabled access? Fine
Parking? Nearby
Go back? Can't wait..SUPL: