A FEW after-work drinks with an old friend presented the ideal opportunity to discover what I’d been hearing about a certain city centre(ish) watering hole.

My vague memory of the Lord Clifden from the 1980s was of a pretty basic, unmemorable boozer so I’d been surprised to learn people raving about the place for its food and ambiance.

Outside, it has retained its ‘traditional backstreet boozer’ look, and despite some nearby upmarket flat block developments remains in a fairly rundown area.

But what a revelation inside. There’s tasteful artwork and the modern wood and bare brick walls feel contrasts nicely with little touches such as the old fashioned round metal-topped pub tables.

A superb, spacious beer garden has quirky touches like table football and a table tennis table part of the fixtures.

The staff were friendly and welcoming, despite neither of us obviously being regulars, and there’s a fine range of real ales and lagers on tap.

The menu isn’t vast and there’s nothing particularly unusual on it, but what’s there is largely a bit of a take on pub grub favourites from sandwiches to burgers, grills and so-called classics.

I plumped for the slow-braised lamb shank with minted jus and redcurrant jelly with buttered mash.

The tasty meat melted in the mouth, the mash (which surprisingly some pubs can get so wrong) was a delight and the portion generous.

Morris went for a really generous option – the 8oz rump steak with some very chunky chips, vegetables, field mushroom and tomato – and was delighted with his medium rare meat and fries.

With pub grub this good, we just had to find room for pudding.

From the small selection of sweets, we both picked the homemade apple and pear oat crumble.

It proved delicious and faultless with a real ‘homemade’ taste.

What a find – a centrally located pub of such individual character and quality fayre without being pretentious.

The Bill

Lamb shank £8.95

8oz rump steak £9.95

Crumble (x2)£5.50

Pint Bathams £2.80

Pint Peroni £3.50

Total: £30.70

The Verdict ****

PLUS: No nonsense grub perfectly executed and a range of ales.

MINUS: Probably not the place if you're looking for a full meal in a hurry, limited for vegetarians