The Rectory, St Paul's Square. 0121 605 1001

The Rectory

IS THERE some secret conspiracy to thwart the wishes of those who ask for their steaks to be served rare?

It’s tempting to think this is the case for few are the restaurants that have managed to serve a properly bloody chunk of beef when that is what I’ve requested.

Perhaps, though, the answer is simpler – that my preference hasn’t been conveyed to the kitchen, for instance. Or that the chef’s judgment is seriously wonky.

Whatever the reason, I think I’m going to have to resort to telling the waiter: “Cut off its hooves, wipe its backside and bring it to the table.”

The latest overcooked steak to be placed in front of me came at the Rectory Bar and Restaurant, a likeable place overlooking beautiful St Paul’s Square on the edge of the Jewellery Quarter.

When I cut into the slice of rump, it showed not the merest hint of pink. Which was a shame because it was a tender and tasty piece of meat.

The grilled flat mushroom and tomato that lay alongside were enjoyable, but the appearance, flavour and texture of the thin and curly fries that came in a bowl suggested they might have come out of a packet.

Lynn’s chicken, avocado and bacon salad was a filling plateful.

Likewise the vegetarian pasta dish ordered by Ewan, who has for some reason decided to forsake meat.

Murray’s beef Wellington won his praise, though he thought the red wine sauce was a little bitter.

But his girlfriend Sarah had nothing but admiration for the slow-cooked belly pork that she ordered.

Earlier we had eaten a selection of starters – in my case very pleasant vegetable kebabs served with a tomato sauce given spicy warmth by cumin.

Breadcrumbed garlicky mushrooms, mini-fishcakes and a red pepper tapanade served with ciabatta were all very received.

With beers, wine and soft drinks, the bill for the five ustopped a hundred quid – rather steep, I thought, for fairly ordinary food.

Especially since the atmosphere on the midweek evening we visited was far more akin to that of a noisy bar than a classy restaurant.

But service throughout was friendly and efficient.

Not a bad meal, just an underwhelming one.

* Verdict

HOW MUCH?...................£119

VEGETARIANS?............... Fine

CHILD FRIENDLY?..............Yes

DISABLED ACCESS?........... OK

PARKING?...............On-street

GO BACK?..........................Yes

* OUR TOP 5...PLACES NEARBY

LASAN
Classy Indian food prepared with a lightness of touch. 3-4 Dakota Buildings, James Street, Hockley. 0121 212 3664

BUCKLEMAKER
Long established restaurant. 30 Mary Ann Street, St Pauls Square. 0121 200 2515.

PURNELL’S
Glynn Purnell serves up superb modern cuisine. 55 Cornwall Street, Birmingham. 0121 212 9799.

OPUS
Just over the road, the food here is simpler but tasty. 54 Cornwall Street, Birmingham. 0121 200 2323.

CHEZ JULES
Unfussy French food in unfussy surroundings. 5a Ethel Street, Birmingham. 0121 633 4664

Share