CHAIN restaurants are not my favourite places.
Too often they celebrate sameness and mediocrity rather than originality and excellence.
But I have to admit a deep regard for Strada, a small(ish) collection of Italian restaurants in our bigger towns and cities, including two in Birmingham.
That in The Mailbox occupies the space that once housed that long-gone gastro-temple Paris and it couldn’t be more different.
Gone is the sombre, reverential atmosphere. In its place is light, smiles, hustle and bustle.
The cooking doesn’t, of course, reach the heights that the kitchen achieved when Paris was pursuing a Michelin star.
Now it is simple Italian classics based on good ingredients treated with respect and skill.
My starter – insalata Toscana – was based around melted buffalo mozzarella wrapped in tangy speck that had been fried. This combination of soft, creamy cheese and crisp, salty meat was a winning one.
Beneath lay a salad of leaves, tomatoes, olives, onions, crouton and red peppers – unfortunately raw and therefore lacking sweetness rather than roasted as had been promised on the menu.
Lynn’s Caprese, combining mozzarella, tomatoes and basil, won her approval, especially the pearly white, perfectly textured cheese.
And Ewan tackled his roasted king prawns, served with garlic, white wine, chill, lemon, parsley and olive oil, with gusto.
Shame, though, that he was given no bread to mop up the sauce.
Main courses, too, generally pleased.
The calves liver I ordered rare arrived cooked well beyond that point, but retained enough flavour and texture to convince me that this was one bovine baby that hadn’t died in vain.
The crisp pancetta, spud puree, properly firm green beans and sage and butter sauce that came with the offal were all enjoyed.
Lynn’s braised lamb shank was meltingly tender, though she thought the balsamic and tomato sauce a little overwhelming.
The two of us shared a side order of griddled courgettes that were excellent.
Ewan, meanwhile, enthusiastically ate risotto containing asparagus, broad beans, peas and and various other bits of greenery.
None of us wanted dessert for these were filling dishes.
Our bill also included a bottle of rich and fruity Primitivo, a couple of soft drinks and a coffee.
* The Verdict
HOW MUCH?.........£85 for three
VEGETARIANS?...............Choices
CHILD FRIENDLY?..................Yes
DISABLED ACCESS?... ..........Fine
PARKING?.......................Nearby
GO BACK?.....................Happily
* Our top 5 places for shoppers:
WOKTASTIC
Funky place that serves great sushi and noodles.
Paradise Forum, Birmingham. 0121 236 3130.
WAGAMAMA
Grab some satisfying noodles at this bright restaurant.
Bullring Shopping Centre, Edgbaston Street, Birmingham. 0121 633 3033.
CHEZ JULES
A relaxed and charming French restaurant.
5a Ethel Street, off New Street, Birmingham. 0121 633 4664.
THE OLD JOINT STOCK
Lovely decor, good beer and decent food.
4 Temple Row West, Birmingham. 0121 200 1892.
CAFE SOYA II
This place offers great Oriental nosh at a good price.
Unit 2, Upper Dean Street, Birmingham. 0121 622 3888.