SOMETIMES the smallest things – me excluded, obviously – provide life’s greatest pleasures.
Take the little pot of lime pickle that came with the perfectly crisp popadoms at Barajee.
It was chunky, sharp, sticky and, at the last moment, gave an enlivening burst of chilli heat.
Alongside lay a smooth and fruity mango chutney, a soothing yoghurt sauce and some painstakingly sliced onions, peppers and carrots that provided crunch.
A sense of contentment enveloped me as I gazed out of this first-floor restaurant’s window at Broad Street – office workers bustling home, drinkers meandering merrily between bars, lights reflected in the water of the canal alongside the ICC.
Let’s not pretend that Barajee offers cuisine of jaw-dropping quality or novelty, but it’s sure as heck a pleasant place to while away a couple of hours while enjoying a well-crafted curry.
The decor is light and modern and the service swift and friendly.
The deep-fried strips of coley that came after the popadoms and sauces was fine stuff – the sort of dish you can imagine being eaten as street food in a crowded and noisy Eastern city.
The spicing was delicate, the texture soft and flaky.
Lynn’s chicken tikka starter also got the thumbs up, though a forkful of fish convinced her that my selection was the winner.
I followed my piscean starter with a bowl of gosht gata masala, chunks of meat with the assertive, almost gamey flavour of mutton but the yielding texture of lamb.
The gravy was rich and deftly spiced, with a slight tang which came (I think) from the addition of pickle.
Lynn’s potato and aubergine curry was also well received – a substantial dish which, again, had a tang of pickle.
She ate a roti while I ate a naan.
The servings were large enough to ensure that much food remained uneaten as our appetites diminished, though we managed to eat the chocolate mints that came with the reasonably pitched bill.
At a little over £20 a head with a couple of glasses of wine and a similar number of beers, this represented solidly good value.
Verdict ****
How much? £43
Vegetarians? Good choice
Child friendly? Yes
Disabled access? Upstairs
Parking? Nearby
Go back? Yes
Value ££££
Five Places...For a value curry
JYOTI
Fabulous Indian vegetarian fare at a great price in new premises along the road from the old gaff.
1045 Stratford Road, Hall Green, Birmingham.
LASAN
Check out the good value lunchtime deals at this classy and stylish Indian restaurant.
3-4 Dakota Buildings, James Street, St Paul’s Square, Hockley, 0121 212 3664.
AL FAISAL
Long-established curry house offering great value balti dishes in smart surroundings.
136-140 Stoney Lane, Sparkbrook, Birmingham. 0121 449 5695.
DEOLALI
Named after the Indian town where British troops reputedly went mad as they waited for boat home, this stylish place offers good curries at a decent price.
23a St Mary’s Row, Moseley. 0121 442 2222.
AL FRASH
One of the landmarks in the Balti Triangle, an unfussy restaurant that offers tasty, filling food at a price that won’t break the bank.
186 Ladypool Road, Sparkbrook 0121 753 3120.