AMBITION is a good thing, encouraging us to improve and innovate.

But, sometimes, knowing our limitations isn’t a bad thing either.

Thus an unambitious menu at this recently opened restaurant in Moseley Village didn’t unduly alarm me.

Too often restaurants seek to wow punters with fancy dishes that are beyond the ability of their kitchens.

No chance here because the list is admirably short and sensible – a few standard Italian starters, pizzas, pasta and rissoto dishes.

A plate of Italian meats – decent ham, sassy salame and pleasantly mild mortadello – hit the target.

A garnsh of grapes and under-ripe melon was unnecessary.

But the bread – home-made, I think – that accompanied the dish was excellent stuff.

Lynn’s starter of caponata – a Scilian vegetable dish – was enjoyed.

Likewise she was impressed by the ham and mushroom pizza she ordered – especially the crisp, light base that, again, seemed to be home-made.

The pasta I ordered was perfectly cooked – firm without being hard.

And the light, refreshing sauce, featuring spring onions, celery, tomato and an enlivening whack of chilli, was well balanced and satsifying.

My wife decided against desert, instead ordering a coffee.

But I progressed to what was probably the highlight of the meal.

Good, crumbly pastry was topped with a generous layer of frangipane with a good almond flavour and pleasing texture.

In it nestled a fig which added perfume and fruity flavour.

Light it wasn’t. Satisfying it most certainly was.

A bottle of pleasantly light and fruity Valpollicello was included in a bill I thought was reasonable.

Service throughout the meal – provided by the restaurant’s young owner – was attentive, friendly and efficient.

The space seems a lot brighter and spacious than when it was occupied by Little Italy, never a favourite of mine.

Pomodoro Rosso probably isn’t the most stylish restaurant you’ll ever sit in.

Nevertheless, it’s a decent place for no-nonsense Italian standards cooked with a degree of skill and served in surroundings that won’t put you on edge.

Sometimes sticking with the basics, rather than seeking to over-complicate things, can be the right approach.

Unambitious as that might be.