NOW the dark mornings and fast darkening evenings are upon us, comfort food is back on the menu.

Wild mushrooms are in season at this time of year and supermarkets sell a wide variety.

The distinctive taste and dense texture of mushrooms are a welcome addition to almost any savoury dish, from casseroles and stews to soups and stir fries.

But they really come into their own when their flavours are allowed to shine.

They go particularly well with a juicy steak or soft French or Italian cheese.

A simple but hearty dish is an open puff pastry tart piled with sliced mushrooms and basil.

Even simpler is to sauté in butter a particularly aromatic mushroom, such as the chanterelle, and ladle over thick slices of buttered toast.