Winter is the time to make the most of preserved ingredients, such as dried borlotti beans, which make great ballast for cold days.

Soak them overnight in cold water, then boil in fresh water with a bay leaf or two (no salt, as this toughens the red-mottled beans) until really tender – up to 90 minutes.

Once drained, they can be tossed with wilted spinach and caramelised onion, or roasted tomatoes and sage, to make a delicious accompaniment to bruschetta or polenta.

In Italy, borlotti are widely used in hearty soups, often paired with shredded winter greens, lots of garlic and lashings of peppery olive oil.