CRAYFISH are much smaller, freshwater cousins of the lobster. When sourcing crayfish, remember that the native British white-claw is a protected species, so you should be sold signal crayfish, which has a distinctive red underside.

Crayfish are generally suitable for the same treatment as large prawns or langoustines.

With such sweet meat, simplicity is the key, so eat cooked, fresh crayfish with mayonnaise and a dash of lemon juice or fry in paprika, garlic and plenty of olive oil and stir into pasta.

Another way I really recommend is to boil crayfish in salted water, with a liberal amount of bronze fennel for flavour, and serve alongside thin slices of buttered granary bread. Crayfish is also delicious in risottos, soups and stews.

* Jonathan Parnell is executive chef at Filini at the Radisson SAS Hotel, Birmingham.