THERE was a time long, long ago when exotic meant to me sachets of dehydrated ingredients which, when cooked in water, magically became a plate of curry or bowl of chow mein.

These days we travel the world and eat the local dishes. On our doorstep there are restaurants serving many styles of food from many lands.

Consequently, the thrill that the unusual once provided has all but disappeared and it’s difficult to regard any restaurant as exotic. Apart, I think, from Middle Eastern food, for there are precious few of such establishments in this area.

Which is why I was excited when a leaflet for Donya dropped through by letter box recently.

For here was a restaurant and cafe that serves Persian food with unfamiliar names such as sabzi polio ba mahi.

Now, before the wax on my lyricism sets too hard, let’s get one thing absolutely clear.

Though perfectly comfortable, Donya is more cafe than posh restaurant. And the food is unfussy.

A television – showing Iranian music videos – dominated the room and, much as I detest such devices in restaurants, I have to admit it added a certain something to the ambience.

As the singers sang and the dancers danced, I shared with my wife and son four starters.

All were good, but the best was kashkeh bademjan – a sort of rustic aubergine puree with a smoky depth of flavour enlivened with herbs and a splash of a sharp whey sauce.

A bowl of mixed diced salad was refreshing and a bowl of creamy yoghurt, spiked judiciously with garlic, was soothing. A plate of fresh herbs, crumbly feta cheese and walnuts was also good.

We shared a bowl of unleavened Persian bread, mopping up bits and pieces from our plates.

Main courses, too, delivered plenty of flavour and texture.

Khoresht fesenjan comprised good quality chicken served in a rich, dark sauce given thickness by pounded walnuts and sharpness by pomegranate juice.

Served with a huge mound of rice, some fragrant and golden from the addition of saffron, this was a deeply satisfying dish.

Ewan’s lamb shank baghalio polo, likewise served with rice, included plenty of tender meat in a lighter sauce. Lynn’s main course of chicken zereshk polo was another well-received dish, this time the rice given oomph by a scattering of intensely sharp barberries.

None of us had room for desserts, though one of the three Iranian sisters who own Donya kindly brought some sweet, flaky cakes at the end of the meal.

I’m smitten.

* The Verdict

How much?............£38 for three

Vegetarians?..................Options

Child friendly?.....................Very

Disabled access?..................Fine

Parking?.................Some nearby

Go back?.........................Love to

Value ................................£££££

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This unfussy offshoot of the acclaimed Lasan restaurant in the city centre offers good Indian food at a great price.
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Cafe Soya II
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Purnell ’s
You can eat three-course lunch for £20 (or two courses for £17) at this Michelinstarred restaurant.
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