SLOW service, poor food and outrageously high bills have never persuaded me to inflict GBH on any member of staff at any restaurant I’ve visited during the long and arduous years I’ve been writing this column.
Yet the fork twitched dangerously in my hand as I suspiciously eyed the waitress who’d placed in front of me a lemon curd cheesecake at the very likeable Bell and Cross in Belbroughton.
“It’s my favourite,” she said. “I want it.”
Just you try, I thought. Just you try.
For this dessert was among the nicest I’ve eaten for a very long time.
The base was properly crumbly and the deep, cheesy topping as light as the conscience of someone who has managed resist the urge to lash out – albeit defensively – with an item of cutlery.
A lemon curd glaze gave plenty of zing and a scattering of honeycomb added texture and sweetness.
My friend Steve tucked into treacle tart with custard, which he thoroughly enjoyed.
These desserts brought to an end a rather good meal at this country pub, owned by Roger Narbett, who’s chef to the England football team.
The duck rillette with which I started was rich and nicely stringy and came with a well balanced apricot chutney and young leaves.
My wife ate fishcakes which she said were very good indeed while her friend Lynne was impressed by the white bean soup she’d ordered. Steve’s melting mozarella and ham combo also won applause.
Main courses, too, hit the target.
The calf’s liver I was served wasn’t as pink as I’d have liked, but was tender.
The pancetta that accompanied it was good and crisp and the black pudding that lay below was gently spiced and moist.
Jus that was served with the dish was first class – glossy, savoury and with real depth of flavour.
My wife’s lamb stew with herb dumplings was well received, as were Lynne’s hake in a red wine jus and Steve’s pot roast duck breast.
Service throughout the meal was friendly, though at times a touch slow.
There was a pleasant buzz about the pub, where dining takes place in a number of small rooms with a slight lack of elbow space. The bill came in at less than £30 a head with a modest number of drinks – good value for food of this quality.
Verdict
How much? £118 for four
Vegetarians? Options
Child friendly? Yes
Parking? Car park
Disabled access? Cramped
Go back? Yes
Food, decor, service: ***
Value: £££
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