PITY the poor mackerel, largely shunned by the eating public despite being the sleekest, most glistening fish in the ocean.

Plainly grilled or fried at its freshest, it is magnificent with its oiliness offset by the sharpness of a gooseberry sauce.

But here, at this unfussy restaurant, it came in its smoked form.

Blitzed into a coarse, creamy paté, its richness mitigated by a generous squeeze of lemon juice, it was a simple starter that was hugely enjoyable.

All the more so because of the accompanying salad that included plenty of capers and gherkins – two robust ingredients that held their own against the fish.

Lynn, meanwhile, began her meal with a Greek salad that, like my pate, was much appreciated.

Next for me came a rib-eye steak that was rare – just as I’d requested.

Quite why so many of this country’s restaurants – posh places included – seem incapable of serving steak in such a fashion is a source of bafflement to me.

The meat was moist, succulent and good.

Now some negatives: the mushroom and tarragon sauce that came with the steak was horrible, cloying stuff that reminded me of tinned soup.

And the green beans at the side were way under-cooked – I’m all for al dente vegetables, but these were barely blanched and were far too firm.

However, the chips that came with the dish were decent things, though I couldn’t really see the point of the paprika sprinkled on top.

Lynn thoroughly enjoyed her fishcakes – two large discs that were said to be light and tasty.

Neither of us had room for dessert for the portions of both starters and main courses were generous.

By now, the restaurant was filling up fast and there was a good buzz about the place.

Despite this, service from our waitress was impeccably friendly and helpful.

Our wine – an Argentian malbec with a good jammy flavour – disappeared and so did we...with a lot of goodwill towards the place.

Part of a small chain, Red Peppers has an eclectic menu.

Normally I’d be wary of a place offering British classics alongside dishes from the Far East and Mediterranean. But it ticks the boxes with skill if not flair.

Don’t expect fancy food – but Red Peppers does deliver decent grub at a good price.

Verdict

How much? £53 for two

Child friendly? Yes

Vegetarians? Choices

Disabled access? Fine

Car parking? Plenty

Go back? Happily

Value: ££££

Food, decor, service: 3/5